China is the world's most populous country with about 1.3 billion people—20 percent of the Earth's population.

China Trip

October 2002

China is a land of contrasts…one of the world's fastest growing economies, yet as modern and sophisticated as its cities are, the rural areas are poor and underdeveloped. It is a huge country; the big cities are sprawling with the majority of people either living in identical boxy apartment complexes or cramped shacks. McDonald's, KFC, Pizza Hut, upscale malls with international shops exist in their modern pedestrian mall areas. Most items available in USA are also available there and cheaper. The population is 1.36 billion…and there is a limit of one child per family if living in the cities. They are fined if they exceed that; in rural areas, two children are allowed.

Bottled water is everywhere because of the country's poor sanitation. The huge river dam project on the Yangtze is intended to provide flood control and hydroelectricity… and to eventually clean up their water…in years to come. 1.2 million people will or have had their homes and cities destroyed to create this dam project. This project has been resisted by the elder population even though their new homes will be more modern and have better facilities.

Traffic is incredible, as is pollution! There is a constant haze; many Chinese wear protective masks. There are no traffic lights except at major intersections. There are no left turns, so everyone convenes at the same time, or moves as they wish. Cars make u-turns as desired, and they pass traffic in any lane…North or South…cars, busses, trucks, pedicabs, cycles, bikes and pedestrians…all at the same time.

Young educated professionals in the city make $10 to$12K, and that is considered a very good salary. They may purchase a new apartment for $25K and mortgage it for life. In Beijing, 25% are upper middle class. After taxes, they make from 25K to 50K and live very well. There is a millionaire's ghetto outside Beijing, and that is considered the top echelon. About 35% of Chinese are independent operators; they make under 10K on little jobs…selling Chinese souvenirs, doing odd jobs, etc. However, 40% are very poor; unemployment is a big problem. If the latter were asked if they preferred democracy or empirical rule, they would choose empirical because they don't understand democracy. These facts were told to us by our guides.

We noticed an absence of insects, cats, dogs and birds in the environment. In fact, during our entire stay, we only saw about ten dogs. We were told that during Mao's rule, he had many of the birds killed for they were eating the grain.

The food is different than the Chinese food in our country. It's more bland, although certain provinces use very hot seasoning. They eat a lot of vegetables and organ meats.

Baby care is interesting! Diapers are too expensive to keep on the baby during the day, and it is felt that it is healthier without diapers, so the butt goes bare. Clothes are made so that there is a flap in the back and that is kept open. We saw mothers carrying babies with butts exposed in cold weather. Potty training is done in nursery school. We witnessed that happening. The two and three-year olds sit on chamber pots outside, and/or others stand together and use a pail.

Politically, approximately 70,000,000 are communist (mostly older generation); the bulk are socialists in the process of adopting capitalism. The young people want democracy; they want entrepreneurship and speak freely about it.

China is one of the world's oldest civilizations. It goes back over 5,000 years. It was ruled by a series of continuous dynasties. Sun-Yat-Sen overthrew the Quing Dynasty in 1911 and tried to unify China. When he died, Chiang Kai-Shek took control and at the same time, Mao Zedong was leading the Communist party for control. Mao ruled from 1949 to 1976. The Chinese welcomed communism, although The Great Leap Forward (1958-61) and the Cultural Revolution (1966-76) had disastrous effects on the country. When Mao died in 1976, Deng Xiaoping came to power and moved away from Maoism. He was more moderate so private enterprise, growth, trade and educational exchanges thrived. In 1989 with the Tiananmen Square massacre, China's open door policy was on hold. In 1992, China started to become one of the fastest-growing economies…as it remains today.

Shanghai is the financial capital of China and a premier port of 13,000,000 on the west coast of the Pacific. In recent years, radical changes have taken place around the city. There are many newly built bridges, the revamped Bund area, the Oriental Pearl Tower, state-of-art metro system. Don't miss the beautiful YuYuan Gardens, an excellent model of classical Chinese gardening architecture built in 1500s with extensive stone work, bridges, cultural relics, and an ancient opera stage.

Visit the Children's Palace, an after school cultural enrichment program for children up to the age of fourteen. Interesting also is Soong Chin Ling's residence. Walk up Nanjing Road, China's Golden Mile….an incredible pedestrian shopping area. You can find anything you want, even a very upscale American mall. Another must is The Bund, China's Wall Street, a hustling, bustling riverside area. Here you will see the Pearl Tower. Go to the Shanghai Museum of Art. View the calligraphy, coins, seals, jade, pottery, era clothing…and visit the Museum Shop for some great finds in tapestries.

If you are going to Suzhou, the silk city, then an absolute must see is in the Southeast section: Zhou Zhuang, a quaint old canal community surrounded by several lakes, with a network of canals reminiscent of Venetian scenes. There are stone bridges, ancient lanes and winding walkways, street artists painting and local food for purchase. Walk along the canals or take a boat ride. Become a part of the local everyday life.

Stop at The Lingering Garden, a world cultural heritage. Don't miss the beautiful lotus gardens and the museum….and the wonderful Humble Administrator's Garden.

Suzhou is 50 miles west of Shanghai, known as the home of silk for over 5000 years....and famous for its embroidery. It is a modern developing Chinese city, steeped in history and ancient culture. Visit Panmen Park (behind the Sheraton Hotel) to the Southwest of Suzhou. It is noted for its scenic beauty and historic sites. Don't miss the Panmen Gate, the last vestige of Suzhou's ancient city wall, the Captive Fish Pool, the Memorial Temple and the Pagoda Yard.

Then, you must visit the silk factory. Witness a presentation of the metamorphisis of the silkworm moth. Go into the store for great silk purchases. Don't miss the Embroidery Institute for hand-made items and watch the women creating these masterpieces.

A boat ride on the Grand Canal is most educational for you will see how the locals live along the banks of the city's ancient waterway. Stop at Tiger Hill Pagoda (former Buddhist temple, now a tourist attraction and park area). It is a brick pagoda with seven floors, eight sides…a symbol of ancient Suzhou. Performances are given at certain times.

Nanjing, former capital of many dynasties and one of China's great cities has become known for one of the worst atrocities of WWII…The Rape of Nanjing…where invading Japanese soldiers butchered 300,000 civilians. Today it is a wealthy, prosperous city with broad, tree-lined streets and balconied houses. It is also known as a furnace city…heat and humidity are so oppressive.Don't miss Sun-Yat-Sen's mausoleum….he is known as the Father of China, an active pioneer of the Chinese Democratic Revolution; The Nanjing Museum of History; Confucius Temple area; Ming Tomb of the First Emperor of the Dynasty

Wuhan- Fly to Wuhan to take a riverboat cruise up the Yangtze River (Wuhan is also known as a furnace city). Get there early (there is much to see here and the boat doesn't leave until evening). Try to see The Chinese Rare Stone Museum. There are over 10,000 pieces of rare stone from all over China and 3,000 exhibitions. Don't miss the Garden Museum for more rich stone collections and the Bon-Sai Garden. Interesting to note is The Wuhan Provincial Museum where the 2300 year-old bells that were dug up in that local area are displayed; there is a bell performance available (using replica-type bells). Nearby is East Lake Park.

Riverboat Cruise to tour Three Gorges and Other Famous Sights

Pass through ship locks, enter the gorges, stop at Sandouping for tour of the Three Gorge Dam Site Project. These cruises last four or five days, and there are many other activities to partake of while here. One is to take a small Pea Pod boat upstream on a tributary of the Yangtze. These small boats hold fifteen and are pulled by peasant farmers called Trackers; they pull the Pea Pods with long ropes; trip lasts a f ew hours and then you are returned to the cruise boat. In the Fall of 2002 we saw major demolition and reconstruction of cities along the river due to the dam project. New apartments were being built for the displaced 1.2 million people; cities were being destroyed, and relocation either happened or will be happening. When the cruise boats stop at these cities, get off and go into the markets.

One port city where our cruise ship stopped is Chongqing, known as the largest city in the world … 30,000,000 people…also known as a furnace city….one of the hottest in China. It is a very busy waterfront city bursting with life, incredible heat, humidity and pollution…a city of hills and steps. Visit The Peoples' Conference Hall; walk through the open markets and up the many steps; go on to the pedestrian mall. Another stop is Wanxian, a river town with large population; two/thirds of the population lost their homes to this dam project and have been relocated. When your 4-5 day cruise is over, take a short flight to Xian.

Xian is the capital city of Shaanxi Province, population of 3.25 million. It is a world-renowned ancient capital of thirteen dynasties and home of the Terra-Cotta Warriors. These warriors were buried in 200 BC to protect the afterlife of the emperor; they were discovered in 1974 by two farmers digging a well. The museum of the Terra-Cotta Warriors is included in the UNESCO World Heritage list. The entire place is amazing!

Don't miss:

• The Great Wild Goose Pagoda and Thanksgiving Temple
• Ancient city walls
• Ruins of Banpo Village
• And the Tang Dynasty Dinner Theatre Show is great!

From Xian, you can take another flight to Beijing.

Beijing - The political capital of China with a population of 12,000,000. Beijing is a very modern city spiked with high rises. There are huge identical apartment buildings, gigantic office complexes and eight-lane highways that never seem to end. It is the most cosmopolitan part of China today. It's also home to expatriates who live mostly in suburban ghettos. Much is westernized…music, food, dancing, internet cafes, spiked hair, punk clubs, etc. China's past imperial history was played out here, but today the city is very different. There are beautiful parks, but the hutongs (old communal neighborhoods built in lane style) still show traces of old China. Winter climate is very cold.

The Forbidden City - In Imperial China, for five centuries and through the reign of 24 emperors of Ming and Qing Dynasties, ordinary Chinese were not allowed to enter. The royal family lived in this huge complex of 9,999 rooms and 100 reception halls. In more recent years, the name was changed to the Palace Museum; 40% is now open to the public. It holds top treasures for China. Jade was very important to the Chinese emperors because it represents prosperity and keeps evil spirits away. You may walk around and go into some of the reception halls.

Tiananmen Square is a short walk out of the Forbidden City. It can accommodate 1,000,000 people…largest in the world. This is where Mao's mausoleum lies. Security is strong, but it is open to the public. In the same area is the Temple of Heaven…where the emperor and his clan came to praise their gods and ask for a good harvest. Twice a year there would be a long four mile procession to attend this special event.

The Great Wall -This incredible structure was begun in the fifth century BC and was still being built into the 16th century. If the sections were placed end to end, it would link NYC to LA. It was built for protection…to separate rival countries. Many of the laborers were criminals, and if there were not enough men, women were brought in to work. It's considered to be stuffed with the bones and blood of soldiers. There are different restored sections that bring in the tourists. The most imposing and traveled is at Badaling. If you want to climb to the top at this section, be prepared to walk up 1646 very uneven steps. They are all different sizes; some are 18 to 24" high.

The Ming Tombs - This is the burial site for thirteen emperors, empresses and concubines. One of the tombs has been opened…so we were told. All of them will be opened when the Chinese find better ways to preserve these relics; and, it will create employment for poor Chinese.

Ride a pedicab up and down the lanes of the hutongs to see the ancient communal life-style. If you can, visit with a family in this area to learn about their way of life. Their ways are still from the old country. Most have never left their neighborhood. Their annual income is under $500 per year, but they have a simple and supportive life with their families and neighbors. Cooking is usually done with a group; there is a central toilet for community use…they may have their own shower. It's quite amazing to experience time with them. Of course, you will need a translator for they don't speak English.

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